October 18, 2025

Day 3 in Peru

Today was a very full day of a lot of travel, but it’s 9:11 and I’m in bed showered and ready to go to sleep. But this morning, I was in Cuzco and I packed in a way where I could leave my big suitcase in Ollantayambo and just take my backpack and my purse with me to Aguas Calientes. I am SO glad I did this because my big suitcase on the train and getting around Aguas Calientes would have been way too much.

So my driver—Amilcar—picked me up in Cuzco where I was staying. He had a very nice car and carried my bag down the stairs for me, which was really nice. We went up and over the top of Cuzco. We just kept going up and up and up, and at one point I looked at the elevation and we were at 12,000 feet, the same as where I was the other day at some of the sacred sites.

It was so wild seeing all the different parts of Cuzco. One of the things that just really stuck out to me is like even in the city center and then the further out you go, it’s almost like everybody has a business. People are selling so many different things. There are all kinds of shops—so many kinds of shops everywhere. Sometimes I feel like, oh my God, how am I going to find water, how am I going to find bananas, or how am I going to find an ATM—but like they’re literally everywhere. There are so many options.

And I’m so not used to that with our capitalist model, where the bigger businesses kind of crush the smaller ones, but it just seems like there are so many. I’m in very touristy areas, so obviously tourism is big business, but it was just fascinating to me—all the different shops, and people cooking outside, roasting chickens, people just sitting on the street eating, the outdoor markets.

Almost all of these buildings look like they could fall down at any minute, but I had this thought that it’s almost like a lot of the buildings here are not trying to look cool or pretty on the outside, but then you’d be walking down the street—it looks like the narrowest, tiniest street and like there’s nothing on it—but then you pass this little cross street or look into an open doorway and it’s like there’s this little paradise inside.

So I feel like people in Peru are really good at making things beautiful on the inside, but they’re not really trying to do too much to the outside. That was at least true in Cuzco, I noticed. I guess it makes sense, I don’t know. But you just kind of have to know where you’re going.

So as the driver continued and we kind of went up and over the top of the hill/mountain, the houses started getting further apart, there was more farming and agriculture, and the roads started getting terrible. The roads were so bad and there were so many times when we had to go so slow over these huge potholes. It was just another instance of very different infrastructure.

I was also thinking too—maybe I don’t know if there are building codes here. Do people get permits? Are buildings inspected? It’s just so different. The construction of all the houses looks completely haphazard. A lot of things look like they’re just bricks held together with concrete or even dirt, mud. There’s a lot of corrugated metal. Yeah, it’s wild.

So as we started getting further out away from Cuzco, it was just breathtaking. We were driving through the Andes and it was incredible. So beautiful. I was so moved by these mountains. And there were so many instances of landslides that had only been partially cleared, or it just seemed like the instance of the road being blocked by a landslide could be so high. I was like, oh my God, thank God we’re able to get through.

It was pretty wild and bumpy. There were a lot of dirt roads and then a nice paved section. There was a checkpoint we went through where he had to show his paperwork—lots of police checking all the cars going through. I noticed all these similar things painted on the sides of buildings—“Piro” was everywhere—and that’s a political party. It’s very interesting, all the different political parties. I didn’t do that much research, but people had their political parties painted on the walls and that was interesting.

Then I got into Ollantaytambo. It’s the last living Inca village basically. And it’s crazy because it’s just overrun with tourists. There were a lot of tourists in Cuzco, but also a lot of Peruvian people living their lives. Here, you can just tell—it’s so many tourists.

So I got dropped off and then this man—Tiburicio—came to get me and help me with my bag. He had this bicycle with a cart on the front—and he put my bag in the front and then we proceeded to go up this little alleyway that was a street, but it’s cobblestones, completely haphazard cobblestones. And then at the side, there’s where the water runs.

Anyway, I was like, oh my God, how far is this? I kind of wished I was staying somewhere just on the main square. It was like a five or ten minute walk up this cobblestone street. I was wearing hiking boots and really having to concentrate on not spraining my ankle, and this much older man is pushing the bike up, not riding it, and he’s going way faster than me.

Then he stops in front of this doorway—and nothing is marked. It’s just a random doorway. I had to take pictures of it, like, I think I’ll be able to find it again. I was early and didn’t know the code to get in, and I don’t think he spoke English. Finally, this woman who was cleaning the place let me in. I was just so overwhelmed—everything being so new and different—and also being at altitude and out of breath that I couldn’t even remember what the situation was.

I’d rented this whole house, but I didn’t really understand if they were just letting me in to wait there or if that was where I’d stay. She led me up to this bedroom because she was still cleaning the house, and so I just stayed there. Then when she left, I realized—oh, I’ve rented this whole house! It’s like a three-bedroom house—two twins, a queen, and a king. Obviously I’m in the king bedroom.

There’s an upstairs and a downstairs and it’s huge. There’s a roof deck. Finally I realized, okay, I’m here, I’m at the place I rented—but I was just overwhelmed and confused. When she left and I sorted my stuff out a little bit, I went up and sat on the roof deck and was just in complete awe of the view. It was so beautiful. Being able to see these ancient sites built into the side of the mountain—just incredible.

I could see people walking around up there, amazing. But I only had a little bit of time before I had to pack my backpack and purse and leave. Then I went and got lunch on the square—trout and veggies and potatoes. The potatoes were kind of weird but the trout was fine and the veggies were good. I’m just trying to have light things—grilled—and not too heavy.

It’s been good, I’ve been able to eat pretty healthy, but it’s been a little challenging and I haven’t been able to cook anywhere I’ve stayed yet. It just feels too complicated to do that, so I’ve just been eating out.

After I ate, I got a taxi to take me to the train station. They said to get there half an hour early. It was a madhouse at the train station. So many people and it was so hot. We were waiting in line and I met these people from Liverpool who were traveling all around South America for a whole month. It reminded me how people in other parts of the world know how to take a vacation and travel. They were like, “Why are you only here for two weeks?”

On the way there, I had paid for the premium train ticket, the Vistadome, where there are skylights and huge windows. We were in one of the first cars—car A—but that’s actually the back of the train. When I first sat down, I was sitting backwards and was kind of bummed, but this French man and his wife switched with me so I could sit close to the window and go forwards, which I liked better.

The entire train was full of tourists and I really registered how annoying tourists are—even though I’m a tourist. Americans especially—just so loud. Big tour groups. The stuff people were talking about was just like… I tried to put my AirPods in and listen to music, but there was music playing on the train too, and it was a little too loud.

There was this moment where they invited everyone to the “observatory car.” It was a bar car where there were dancers and musicians—it seemed like a nightmare to me, even though maybe there was a slightly better view. I didn’t go. The time when everyone in my car was in the observatory was the best time.

It was completely gorgeous. The Urubamba River—the train goes along the Urubamba—and the Andes are just on either side. Stunning. As we got closer and further away from Ollantaytambo it started to get more lush, more tropical, with waterfalls coming down through the Andes. It made me so happy to see all of the huachumas growing wild above the river at the base of the mountains. So many of them where huge with tons of stalks/arms. It was so amazing to see all the trails carved into the side of the mountaints. Everything was so stunning and so beautiful, just completely magical. I was loving it so much and kept trying to take pictures.

There are people living along the train tracks. I was sitting next to this woman who was a tour guide for a big group, and she said the Urubamba River is one of the longest rivers—that it and the Nile are the longest—and that the Urubamba flows into the Amazon and then the Atlantic. It was just gorgeous.

Then we stopped. There was an issue. The whole train ride was supposed to take an hour and a half but we were stopped for almost an hour. Such a bummer. The last part of the train ride was in the dark because we left at 3:37 and were supposed to get in at 5:57 but got in at like 6:30 or 6:45. The experience went from magical to super irritating. People on the train were getting more drunk and louder. I was just over it.

They gave us snacks I couldn’t eat. I didn’t order anything on the train. I ate granola. Earlier I ate pumpkin seeds on the drive from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo. I ate some granola on the train. I like having my own snacks.

PeruRail made this big show—when you go into the observatory car they give the men hats and the women fake flower wreaths, and they give everyone a bottle of pisco and a shot glass. I just left mine on the train because I don’t drink. People were drinking a lot, which I can’t fathom at this altitude—I’m barely coping as it is.

So it was a great experience that turned into a sucky one.

When we got into Aguas Calientes, I was worried because I was supposed to meet the person taking me to the hotel at 5:07, but we didn’t have service while we were stopped, and my WhatsApp wasn’t working. I was trying to add a new contact, but it wasn’t working. It was just a mad scene when we got in—so many people.

The tour guide woman next to me said 6,000 people come through Machu Picchu every day. So this poor town of Aguas Calientes has to accommodate all those people every day, which is wild to me. But this really sweet woman was there with a little sign with my name, and she walked me to the hotel, which I was so grateful for.

Then I checked in and tried to go to this restaurant called The Tree House. I was following my Google Maps directions but couldn’t figure it out. There are all these little street pathways through a big market—it’s like the whole town is one huge market with a million vendors of everything. I kept getting confused, couldn’t find The Tree House, so I went to this other restaurant called Green Point and had quinoa, veggies, and avocado.

There are tons of avocados here. We passed avocado trees on the train ride. Now I just want avocado with everything. I’m always afraid to buy avocados because they’re often not good, but the avocados here are amazing.

The restaurant was good, except it was on the second level above the street and the stairs were so steep and narrow. Everything here—the stairways, the doorways—so tiny. Everything is just made for tiny people. I’m not tall, but still, everything’s so little.

I had a good dinner. There was a huge table of German tourists who were loud and annoying, and then it was somebody’s birthday. Just tourists everywhere.

And there have been a couple of times I’ve thought, you know, I can’t come all the way to Peru and not see Machu Picchu, but it’s such a scene. There are just so many people here. It’s wild.

So my tour guide Roberto is meeting me at the hotel tomorrow at 7 AM. Breakfast starts at 4:30, but I’ll probably get up at 5:30, eat breakfast at 6, check out, leave my purse at the front desk, and meet Roberto. We’ll get up to Machu Picchu at 8 and come back at 11 or so. Then my train leaves at 1 or 1:30 or something like that. Not a ton of time here.

Then I go back to Ollantaytambo and I’m just hoping the train makes it. Such a bummer today—I don’t know what happened, something on the track or an issue, but sitting still for an hour sucked.

I hope I’m going to sleep well tonight. I got a terrible night’s sleep last night and this morning had huge bags under my eyes. I feel like I should be getting used to the climate but I’m not. It’s only been a few days. Machu Picchu is at like 9,000 feet, so we’ve come down in elevation, but there are going to be a lot of stairs. They said it’s a 2–3 hour tour, but I’m hoping my guide takes it easy on me and lets me take lots of breaks.

I’m happy to not be in a tour group. I can see how it’s easier, people taking care of you, making sure you get everywhere, helping with your stuff and everything prearranged—but I like the way I’m doing it.

I’m excited for tomorrow. It’s probably going to rain. I think I’m prepared for the rain, but I don’t know. It’ll just be what it’ll be. I was ready for that—like, not everybody gets a sunny day at Machu Picchu.

So far the weather has been amazing. I’ve mostly been walking around in t-shirts. The sky has been these amazing clouds and blue sky—so pretty.

Today, I could’ve sat for hours up on that little roof deck. It was so great, except the one funny thing was that the woman—if you look up and out at the Andes, it’s magical—but then if you look in the neighbors’ yards, this woman was burning her trash. That trash-burning smell. And I think she was cooking some kind of meat—maybe skinning a chicken. I looked over and was like, oh, okay, this is real.

It’s so fascinating. The house in Ollantaytambo—there’s no door. You go up, there’s the bottom level, then you go up the stairs, there are the three bedrooms, then you go up another set of stairs and you’re just outside. No door. Just open air. I was like, wow, okay. How does that work? There’s no door to the deck outside. That must work out somehow.

Anyway, I’m excited to spend more time there tomorrow afternoon and evening. Then I have to leave there pretty early in the morning at like 10, then I go to the retreat. So it’s all happening.

Travel Details

Cuzco to Ollantaytambo

Check out of Cuzco AirBnb by 10am.

Cesar arranged a taxi to pick me up at 10am at Hotel Lliplimpac and take me to the main square, Plaza de Armas in Ollantaytambo.

Catty, airbnb host will have someone meet me in the square and take me to to my room.

Travel by taxi to Ollantaytambo – about 2 hours & 150 soles.

Horno Calle, Ollantaytambo 08676, Peru

Calle Horno is pedestrian since we are located in the last living Inca Village. If they bring large suitcases, please communicate in advance to arrange for luggage to be moved to the House.

The house has a terrace with incredible views of the mountains and Fortaleza de Ollantaytambo. Room with a King bed and are ideal for having a good rest and spending your time in Ollantaytambo. It has everything you need for your comfort such as a private bathroom with hot water to have a very relaxing and comfortable shower.
The house has a beautiful living room, dining room, kitchen, and desk for those who come on a work plan.

The space

The rooms are comfortable with views of the main fortress and Inca granaries, fresh bed linens, bathrooms with toilet paper, soap, shampoo and a shower with hot water 24 hours a day. In the living room area there is also a half bathroom for your convenience.

Guest access

The area is very quiet. Ollantaytambo is a The house is completely at your disposal. No one else will occupy the house during your stay so you can feel comfortable without the presence of people who are not in your group. I want you to feel at home as if it were yours, a private and safe space. Ollantaytambo is a very quiet and safe town.

Other things to note

The house is located in a beautiful Inca area, quiet, pedestrian. We help you with the transfer of luggage to the house. We have a traditional bakery 2 blocks away where you can try fresh bread fresh from the oven. There is also a beautiful restaurant with an incredible garden and an Andean art museum. The Inca granaries are 3 blocks from the house. What are you waiting for to book and enjoy the best Village of the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and get to know Machu Picchu! You will love it so much that maybe you will think about coming back to stay.

Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

PeruRail’s office at Ollantaytambo is located inside the train station:
Av. Ferrocarril s/n, Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Cusco, Peru

Train ride duration from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)

  • The trip typically takes about 1.5-2 hours on most PeruRail / Inca Rail services. Arrive at least 30 minutes prior to the scheduled departure time.
ABIGAIL KOJOLAOLLANTAYTAMBO – MACHU PICCHUVistadome Observatory 60310/18/202515:37 (3:37 pm17:02 (5:37 pm
Ticket PDF

Aguas Calientes

Christophe (host) having someone meet me as my train arrives at 17:02pm to take me to my room.

AirBnb: Aymuraypa Tikan s/n, Aguas Calientes 00000, Peru

Hotel 1911 B&B Aguas Calientes, Cusco 08681 – Hotel 1911 B&B Aymuraypa Tikan B-16, Aguas Calientes, Cusco 08681, Peru

google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=-13.155802%2C-72.523367

. Chullos – Imperio de los Incas 612

2. El Indio Feliz – Pje. Lloque Yupanqui 103

  • Address: Calle Lloque Yupanqui 103, Aguas Calientes (also listed as “Capac Yupanqui No. 103”) Tripadvisor+2The Only Peru Guide+2
  • Hours / service: Open daily for lunch and dinner. The Only Peru Guide
  • Type of food: Offers set 3-course menus plus à la carte options; cuisine is somewhat upscale / fusion with Peruvian influences and international touches. The Only Peru Guide

3. Tree House Restaurant

  • Address / location: In Aguas Calientes, about “two blocks from the main square” in Machu Picchu Pueblo / Aguas Calientes Wanderlog+1
  • Hours: They list 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM (noon to 10 PM) bestofperutravel.com+1
  • Type of food: Peruvian / Andean fusion using local ingredients; lighter, healthier fare as well as hearty dishes (e.g. trout, ribs, pasta) bestofperutravel.com

4. Full House – Imperio de los Incas 620

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