October 17, 2025
Day 2 in Cusco: Altitude, Art, and Unexpected Adventures
Today, on my second day in Cusco, I somehow ended up walking over 12,500 steps and climbing from 11,200 feet to 11,900 feet. I did a lot more than I planned, but it turned out to be a really full, beautiful day — even though I was battling the altitude, headaches, and waves of overwhelm.
After breakfast, I decided to walk up to Sacsayhuamán. It said it would take about 20–25 minutes, and technically it was a straight shot — but it was all uphill, with the last stretch being steep stairs. I didn’t realize what a huge area Sacsayhuamán actually is. By the time I reached the top of the stairs, I felt completely wiped out.
So I ducked into a little restaurant-bar called San Cristo, partly because I needed a bathroom, but also because I desperately needed a break. Upstairs, there was a couch facing an enormous glass wall that overlooked the entire city — such an incredible view. I sat down, ordered coca tea, potatoes, and a lemonade, and just rested for an hour by the open window. The tea was perfect, the potatoes delicious (though I couldn’t finish them), and that quiet moment looking out over Cusco might have been the best part of my day.
On the way up, I’d stopped to look at some street art and met an artist named Johan. He showed me his paintings — beautiful, intricate works inspired by Machu Picchu, ayahuasca, Wachuma, the Inca Cross, and the Inca calendar — some carved and painted on alpaca skin. He was so talented, and I ended up buying two paintings, even though I spent more than I meant to. I know I’m a total sucker for the street vendors — they’re persuasive and persistent — but I’m glad I supported him. His art felt alive.
After resting at San Cristo, a woman outside one of the nearby shops told me I’d need a ticket (70 soles) to visit Sacsayhuamán and three other sacred sites in the surrounding hills. She said her husband, Américo, could drive me to all of them — Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay — and wait while I explored each for about 20 minutes before dropping me at Sacsayhuamán so I could walk back down. The tour was 120 soles, and honestly, the idea of more uphill climbing felt impossible, so I said yes.
Américo was kind and kept saying “no problem” whenever I worried about the altitude. Each site had its own magic — especially Tambomachay, the ritual water temple dedicated to fertility. The path followed a small stream lined with these incredible trees — smooth, peeling bark in gold and red tones, almost like madrone trees — ancient and alive. One spot even had a flower altar in front of a waterfall, and though I couldn’t get too close, it was so beautiful to witness.
At one point, Américo “surprised” me with a stop at an alpaca farm, where a woman showed me all the alpacas and llamas and let me feed them. Then, of course, it led into a high-end alpaca shop. They explained how to tell real baby alpaca wool from the rest. The textiles were gorgeous — shawls, ponchos, even some handmade medicine cups — but I resisted buying anything this time. I’d learned that trick before, in Fiji, when my tour guide kept taking me to rug shops I didn’t ask for.
When Américo dropped me off at the top of Sacsayhuamán, I was so tired. The idea that it was still a half-hour walk back down to town felt impossible. I didn’t know what to do. So I walked into the site and just sat down on the grass. It was so beautiful — I was in my T-shirt, looking up at this brilliant blue sky full of puffy white clouds, such a striking contrast against the ancient stones. I could see the entire city of Cusco below me and the vast ruins stretching around me.
I lay on my back for a long time, then rolled over and lay on my stomach, just resting on the earth. I opened my journal and wrote, “Dear Sacsayhuamán, what would you have me know today?” The site spoke back to me with beautiful, grounding words I’ll share below.
For a while, I just felt completely overwhelmed — but as I stayed there, I could feel the earth giving me energy. I prayed quietly: Help me. And eventually, I felt ready to move again. I learned that the fastest way back to town was actually through the ruins themselves, so I began walking through them — slowly, reverently — touching the stones, taking photos, feeling the ancient energy in the place.
It turned out to be one of the best parts of the day. I’d almost skipped it, thinking I didn’t have the strength, but I’m so glad I didn’t. The energy at those sacred sites felt so ancient and familiar, especially the sound of the water at Tambomachay. Even though my head ached, my heart was pounding, and I was completely exhausted, something about those places gave me the energy to keep going.
When I finally made it back down toward town, I was completely spent but also proud. I stopped again at San Cristo for another coca tea, water, and a chicken dinner, hoping for some protein — but unfortunately, I ended up throwing it all up later that night. I think it was just altitude sickness catching up with me, but it was a bummer. I hadn’t eaten much all day, and I really needed the nourishment.
On the way down from Sacsayhuamán, I sat on a bench in the square to rest, and a woman with all kinds of beautiful jewelry sat beside me. Of course, I ended up buying three pieces — a silver hummingbird necklace, and two round pendants: one with the Flower of Life and another with the Inca calendar. She told me her father, a shaman, made them. They were so beautiful, I couldn’t resist — even though I was already feeling queasy by then.
By the time I got back to my Airbnb, I was completely done. I showered, crawled into bed, and called it an early night — asleep by 9:00 p.m.
Tomorrow is another travel-heavy day — taxi to Ollantaytambo, train to Aguas Calientes, an early wake-up for Machu Picchu, and then back again before heading toward the Sacred Valley and Munay Sonqo Retreat Center.
I’m tired, a little altitude-sick, but grateful. It’s been a full day — one of art, kindness, exhaustion, altitude, and beauty — and I feel like I’m really here now.
Dear Sacsayhuaman,
What would you have me know right now?
My dear woman,
You are a sexy woman. You are quiet, wise, strong and very full of life.
You must do all the things that make you cry with happiness. You must make your life so full of happiness and exploration. Being in sacred places heals your cells, your bones, your tissues, and your organs.
Feel the energy here. Fill your body up with it. Press your body on the earth and breathe. The earth longs to feel you, your heart, your curves, your sweetness. You are very special. Just know that those who see your specialness are those who are for you. You are safe here.
Like Americo says, “No problem.” Soak up this moment. There is literally no rush. Go slow, breathe deep and long, your whole body was made for this.
This is your mountain home. This is your sacred valley. These are your people. This is your moment to receive all that is coming to you.
Elevation 11,740
Travel Details
Central Cusco (Walkable Loop – Old Town & San Blas)
Most of these are within 5–15 minutes walking distance of each other:
- San Pedro Market – lively local market for fruit juices, souvenirs, and local flavor.
- Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) – central, near Avenida El Sol; a good morning visit.
- Twelve-Angled Stone – in the old Inca wall on Hatun Rumiyoc street (San Blas area).
- San Blas neighborhood – artisan quarter with cobblestone streets, galleries, cafés.
- Mirador de San Blas – small viewpoint above the neighborhood, lovely for sunset.
- San Cristóbal Church – higher viewpoint on the opposite hill, overlooks Plaza de Armas.
Suggested restaurants nearby:
- 🥗 Green Point – vegetarian, San Blas area.
- 🥬 Organika – small organic restaurant near Plaza de Armas.
- 🍷 Pachapapa – Andean outdoor dining with firepit, in San Blas.
- 🍽️ Cicciolina or Chicha by Gastón Acurio – near Plaza de Armas for dinner.
Sacred Hills Above Cusco (Short Taxi Ride – 10–25 min from center)
These can all be visited together in a half-day circuit, often called the “Cusco Ruins Tour”:
- Sacsayhuamán – massive Inca fortress, 12 minutes from your Airbnb.
- Q’enqo – small ritual site carved into rock, 5 minutes from Sacsayhuamán.
- Puka Pukara – reddish ruins, ancient checkpoint.
- Tambomachay – ritual water temple dedicated to water and fertility.
These four sites line up along the road leading out of Cusco toward Pisac and can be easily visited with a taxi or local tour (or even by foot between some of them if you’re acclimated).